Pilgrimage to Gangotri with Swami Vishnu-devananda

In 1991, I went on a pilgrimage to India to spend some time with my Guru, Swami Vishnu-devananda. From Delhi, we travelled to Dehradun where we met up with the rest of the small group and Swamiji.
As well as travelling to the Southern temples, Swamiji was most fond of pilgrimage to the Ganges and Himalayas. We travelled in 2 cars from Dehradun to our first stop at the Divine Life Ashram of Master, Swami Sivananda, in Rishikesh. Here, with Swamiji, we paid our respects at Master's Samadhi shrine.

From Rishikesh, it's a long day's journey up the winding mountain roads to Gangotri, where Swamiji has his Guha(cave) by the River Ganges.
It was getting dark and the drivers were understandably anxious about driving in the dark on those narrow steep roads, so they urged Swamiji to stop. I don't know how Swamiji did this, but he told them exactly where to pullover. It was the most perfect spot for us. A short climb up the side of the mountain, there was a small plateau, just enough to put up a couple of tents, and a stream down the side of the mountain. We camped there t under the Himalayan night sky, which was the most amazing memorable experience. The stars were magical. Swami Mahadev taught me the correct, Indian way to eat a mango! You squeeze and gently roll it in your hands till its soft, bite a little hole, then drink the delicious juice.
Swamiji was always on the move, and I don't know if he slept at all. I was just getting comfortable in the tent, just about to nod off, when we were woken up and told Swamiji was getting ready to go. There was barely a chink of light!

So we continued our journey and on the way we stopped at Ganganani, natural hot springs where we all had a wonderful hot bath.
Gangotri is in the Ganges valley, about 12,000ft, 3,700m elevation. The temple is by the banks of the Ganges.

Swamiji's Guha(cave) is a short trek up the road, along the Ganges. The mighty Ganges, although it is not vast in breadth, is very noisy as she tumbles down the valley from Gomukh, the Glacier, source of the Ganges.
         
There is a beautiful tale of how the Goddess Ganga was brought down from heaven through the tapas(penance) of Sage Bhagiratha, to absolve the sins of his predecessors. And because of her might and power, Lord Shiva caught her in his coils as she tumbled down from heaven, thus slowing her down.

Swamiji prostrated to Mother Ganga.
We set up camp for the night in front of Swamiji's cave. In this Guha, cave, Swamiji used to practise his sadhana(spiritual practice). The energy at Gangotri is immense. To be honest, I freaked out initially, it was too much for me! I was given a very special karma yoga, service to perform. I was asked to make sweet rice for Swamiji. Swamiji's cave was a big slab of rock. There was a small section next to it where Pandiji would cook for Swamiji and look after him whenever he came to stay at the cave. Pandiji was an old Indian man from the local area who was a beautiful humble spirit. I remember going into the cook hut and wondering how I was going to make sweet rice over the little fire without cardamom and cashew nuts, very different from the kind of kitchen I'm used to! I don't know how it tasted but I did my best.
The food is normally very simple, usually kitchari or rice, dhal and a vegetable sabji if you're lucky. Fresh food supplies are only available when brought up the mountain. I slept in my tent that night listening to the terrific roar of the divine Ganga. The next day Swamiji set off for pilgrimage. He instructed me, Chandra and Swami Mahadev to stay behind. We stayed at Swamiji's Guha, by the ganges for one week.
 My memory after all this time, is a little hazy, but I do remember
practising asanas, reflecting on life and studying some spiritual books I had with me. Initally, Swami Mahadev and Chandra both had a stinking cold, so I was left to do my own sadhana(spiritual practice).
When they were well, we trekked the 18km to Gomukh, source of the ganges and one of the holiest sites for Hindus(out of 4).


The trek is gently climbing in altitude. Most of the way, we passed cedar trees, amazing fresh mountain springs, little wild flowers and even some cows. I remember it being very green. The streams were the most pure water I have ever drunk. It is an arduous trek and not easy if you suffer from fear of heights. The path is sometimes very narrow or non-existent if its been washed away by a landslide, which happens often in those parts. The last 5 km, the landscape changed quite dramatically. it made me think of a lunar landscape, barren and rocky.It's an incredible experience when you finally arrive at Gomukh(Cow's Mouth).